Stand out Rookie - Oliver Church

Image: Oliver Church's graduate collection 

All photos by Max Lemesheko

 

What lead you to study fashion at a tertiary level?

Allot of change in my life! I was doing academic subjects till 7th form where I realised I didn't went to do them any more. I then I got to end of school and though "I'm not interested in any of things" and realised this was a problem!

I looked at what I could get into, I wanted to do visual arts because it looked easy, like  a good time! From there I  looked at the cert of arts or a bachelor of design - fashion but thought a degree as more important/more academic )leading on from my high school experience.)

I thought it would be an easy three years, get on with my stuff and just get on with what I wanted to do. It was a bit of a shock!

Are you glad you chose fashion in the end?

Yeah! I think what I've learned personally and in terms of how I relate to people now and the skills that people do have..I used to be so academically motivated,  It became interesting when I started to deal with a bunch of new people who were doing different things and bloody good at it! And I was terrible! And that was the best learning process! Getting C-s and learning that people could do different things and be really good at it which was really cool to see!

Tell us about your graduate collection and where it developed from?

It came from approaching the middle market in New Zealand and trying to introduce new and appropriate colours with new shapes into a saturated market. There is a similar leaning within New Zealand, we have the preppy look with  Chino pants and all that! I wanted to give someone a different option in that respect. I took a look at New Zealanders and at developing a New Zealand aesthetic drawing from pioneers of wine in the 60s.

The history in NZ is untapped. I think its really important to pull from our history, which is quite short but I think that is intersing great room for change because you aren't stuck anywhere. 

I really wanted to work with colour this year and building a colour palette that was really interesting and both shapes and colours within a New Zealand environment so I went with something allot looser, something with a bit more shape following overseas trends at the moment, trying to get people wearing different things within this market as I feel at the moment it is a bit limiting.

Is your collection for sale?

Yes! If any one is interested! There is no point in making clothes that dont get worn!

What would your dream job look like?

Over ten next ten years Id love to have a lot of different things going on at once. To stay interested and to have the tenacity to keep going I don't like being comfortable in a situation. its the worst disease to not question what you do any more. I want to develop on working new ideas and developing those ideas between different industries because that s when it gets interesting when you are working with a volume when you are working with lots of people . The smaller it gets it lacks importance . Its about people I guess!

Any advice for a young fashion-ling starting out?

Don't take it for granted! If you are studying at AUT (it is the best, wide range of teachers with international careers with a wide range of skills) think about what you want to do and why you want to do it. The worst thing to do is to do a degree just to tick the boxes. Take the time to grasp what you are doing and why you are doing it. Because then you'll get more out of it

Its going to be hard. Really hard! They really push you at AUT! First year for me was just sleepless nights! You can start out not knowing anything, I started out not being able to sew or having torched a pattern before! I think its important to give yourself that challenge and know that its going to be a bloody hard ride!


HAPPY NEW YEAR OLIVER!


You can email Oliver by clicking here.


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How YOU doing?

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Stand out Rookie 2011 - Jomnarn Dul

Image: Jomnarn Dul's graduate collection // Photo by Max Lemesheko 

In the second to last interview of my series with my favorite designers from the graduating class from AUT's Bachelor of Design - Fashion program for 2011 I chat to the delicious Jomnarn Dul. Her bright colors and layered aesthetic caught my eye on the runway and I just HAD to ask her about her work! Here goes: 

What lead you into fashion? Why did you want to study fashion at AUT? 

AUT seemed like it offered more opportunities than other fashion schools. Basically because I love clothes and because of the Rookie show! 

What is your third year collection about? 

A menswear collection based on colour and proportions. Tonal, colour blocking and a relaxed overall feeling so that any guy could wear it and walk down the street. Carefree and happy. 

Where does your colour palette stem from? 

I just knew I wanted to use colour so the colour blocking seemed like a good way! 

And those proportions? 

All very random too! Every outfit have completely different lengths but because of the colours it tie everything together. There is one really short shirt and then one that goes all the way down to the knee.

What is your 10 year dream? 

I would love to be a successful menswear designer in New Zealand. I think there is a need for it here! 

What's next? 

A job! I want a job! I want to make some money! I want to keep meeting new and amazing people and have fun! 

What would be your dream job? 

If I wasn't designing I would love to be a buyer. To travel would be really cool! 

Is your collection for sale? 

Yes! 

What advice do you have for someone just starting out in their creative studies? 

Follow your gut! Go with what feels good and go with it. Be positive and have fun. Remember and take advantage OF every step of the way. Enjoy it! 

HAPPY NEW YEAR JOM! 

You can email Jom by clicking here. 

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Trying to believe...

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Reflection is empowering

Google have released their year in review video entitled Zeitgeist 2011 (above). This year there were some pretty significant events in world politics and natural catastrophes that devastated communities around the world.

I think the big winners on our little island for 2011 are the Student Army from Canterbury University who, after the devastating Christchurch earthquake in February this year, got to work (as they had done in the September 2010 quakes) helping out neighbourhoods with the clean up task. Checking up on people and shoveling liquefaction. Real heroes!

A special memory for me was walking around Auckland city after the Rugby 2011 World Cup final where New Zealand beat France. I have never seen so many people in downtown Auckland who were all so excited to be alive. If we could learn to capture that passion in our every day living I think we would be a far more interesting society.

As 2012 approaches I encourage you to reflect on the year past as you think about the year ahead. The thought of a new chapter is so empowering! What crazy things will you do next year? Who will you meet? How will your character grow? What will you give?

Nostalgic music always helps me reflect so check out DJ Earworm's mashup

"United State of Pop (2011) World go Boom":

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'Twas the night before Christmas

Merry Christmas bloggy friends! 

Here is me reciting 'twas the night before Christmas by Clement Moore in my Kiwi accent!

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A Green Christmas

Dr. Russell Norman gave this eloquent speech on Wednesday in New Zealand's 50th parliament outlining the Green's plan for this term and the values of the Christmas story.  I'm pretty proud to have given the Green Party my vote! 

Dr. Norman eloquently expresses the social justice call from a little manger in Bethleham:

The story of the incarnation of God in a baby born in a stable is remarkable even to me, an atheist, because it's a story about the distant God of the heavens coming down to live amongst us on earth.

It's a story about that God decreeing that tyranny on earth and utopia in the afterlife is not acceptable and that freedom and equality must characterise life here on earth as well as the afterlife in heaven. It's a story of the birth of new hope.

I hope that 2012 will be a year of great environmental and social conviction in our parliament and great gains will be made towards a greener and happier New Zealand. After all, if we look after the environment and each other we will truly be a richer society.

However you spend this holiday season I hope it is one of deep reflection and great kindness. We can all do more to help each other and to love deeper!

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To read the full speech click here and to watch the second part click here!

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Stand out Rookie 2011: Jack Roy

In my third to last Rookie 2011 interview I chatted to Jack Roy about his graduate collection and who he would make sure he had with him on a dessert island:

What made you decide to enroll in the Fashion programme at AUT?

I was actually originally enrolled in Spacial design at AUT, it wasn't until day 1 of uni that I decided to change.  Fashion design was always an interest of mine and I guess and something in the back of my mind told me change.  Possibly the best spontaneous decision of my life. So far.

How did your collection this year come together? (e.g. design influences/colour stories/place in the market)

I looked at the fundamentals of menswear, what influences menswear specifically and how it differs from women's wear - looking into practicality in clothing and utility wear.  This lead me down the military stream, which I guess a lot of the colours derive from, but I tried not to follow anything too closely.  My market was always going to be street wear, it' s where clothing is most relevant these days.

Tell me about your design aesthetic?

I like the clean and clinical, but above all I love comfy.  Track pants with elastic waist pants, I'm all about that.

And your creative process?

I draw a lot. I'm constantly looking back on sketches I've done to help me achieve the next step.  A lot of my silhouettes and proportions come from what looks best amongst my illustrations and colour comes into it too.  I like the idea of transferring a simple sketch into a physical form.
  

Is there a designer/brand that has been influential in your creative journey?

There have been a lot over the years, but as I developed my skills I tend to move on, never really settling on any one designer.  There are a few that have really influenced me, such as Acne - I love their whole approach to designing whether its fashion or furniture.  Others like Rei Kawakubo and Raf Simons too.

What is the big 10 year dream?

I'll always be creating, but that doesn't have to mean I'm strictly within the Fashion industry.  I want to travel so I'd like to be working overseas somewhere.

Best piece of advice you can give a first year fashion student or someone thinking about formal study?

Not enough people get out and actually get involved with in the New Zealand fashion industry.  Anyone wanting to study needs to take and active stance and go out and meet people.

If you were stuck on a desert island and could only pick three other Rookies from your year who would they be and why?

[Laughs] This is cruel! It strongly depends on why I'm stuck on this island.  Am I holidaying or is this a Castaway situation?  Either way, I would take Eliav Meltzers clothing, cause its practical highly durable, I don't know how long I'm going to be stuck here after all. I would take Jom Dul's collection too, I could mix and match her colours for any occasion.  And of course I would take Keva Rands collection, because after all, I am on a Island and I couldn't go without some Hawaiian print!

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The Week That Was

1. My Papa turned 80! Way awesome. He is the oldest living member of my family anywhere in the world and is the best man I know. Full of integrity, a wicked sense of humour and loves to hassle me about everything I wear. AND HE READS MY BLOG!

2. I visited Beat Communications this week for their AW '12 Showroom day and had good fun with Fiona chatting about what their clients are up to for next season and having a dress up session. In the pic above I'm wearing my new favourite glasses by Oliver Peoples, Freya Bag in Lilac Ostrich by Saben, Baby G watch (soo cute!) and enjoying a VnC afternoon cocktail. 

3. Max sent me the yummy leopard print wrap that I'm wearing as a scarf in the first picture. Christmas is a licence to spread glitter!

4. Parties. They can get next level messy. 

5. Queers. Next level awesome. Request anything by Gaga and before you know it you have danced your little heart out to two full albums. Fabulous.

6. I have this Boyce Avenue cover of Rihanna on constant repeat:

7.  One week till Christmas and the gift I was going to get my brother has sold out. What to do?

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That time I learned how to make candy floss!

Tim et moi making Candy Floss

I had a blast last weekend helping at the Alternative Ball hosted by Rainbow Youth! I learned how to make CANDY FLOSS, dressed up in sparkles and danced the night away in my fabulous Spike Litas by Jeffery Campbell. SUCH FUN! Patty Boy was even there and wrote me a little love note: 

If you don't already do some work with a charity in your city maybe now is a time to think about it with New Year's resolutions pending. Giving back feels good!

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Copy Cats

As a good little blogger I spend most of the day trolling the internet reading everything from news stories to tumblr pages. Fashionista's headline "Holiday Gift Guide: For the Fashion Cat Spaz In Your Life" caught my eye this morning and I was blown away to see what I thought was a very close likeness to Karen Walker's Mini Cat Ring. Instead it is a ring called the Baby Kitten Ring by New York jewellery designer Michelle Chang. 

 Image: Baby Kitten Ring by Michelle Chang (left) 

and Mini Cat Ring by Karen Walker (right)

Retailing for a similar price I asked myself "Who came first?" According to the Etsy featured seller profile on Michelle Chang in October this year she has been producing and selling her own designs on Etsy for two years. BUT if you look at the list dates for her pieces that bear a likeness to the Karen Walker Super Fine range they span from late September to early December 2011. 

Perhaps she could be forgiven for the odd likeness of ONE piece in a large collection? I was pondering this as I looked through Ms Chang's work. It seems the Kitten/Cat ring isn't the only likeness to Karen Walker's Super Fine Range:

Image: Baby Skull Ring by Michelle Chang (left) 

and Mini Skull Ring by Karen Walker (right) 

You can't exactly patent stars and bows (both Ms Chang and Ms Walker produce jewellery using these motifs) but specific images like kittens, skulls, daisies, anchors and peace symbols within a single collection constructed in in a similar style is blatant copying. 

 

Image: Tiny Round Peace Sign Bracelet by Michelle Chang (left) 

and Peace Studs by Karen Walker (right) 

I'm all for supporting the young designer but I'm also a fierce supporter of new and innovative ideas. I'm sorry Michelle but I think Karen beat you to it.  

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Let us make human rights a human reality ♥

Hillary Clinton gave a powerful speech at the UN this week in celebration of the 63rd birthday of the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights. She boldly challenged the cultural, political and religious beliefs that some communities use to limit the human experience of Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgendered people.  

I grew up with this declaration pined to my wall (thanks momma!) so to hear this strong woman boldly claim these rights for the LGBT community was pretty special to listen to.

Please take the time to listen to the full speech above.  Ms Clinton urges everyone to support the Declaration of Human Rights as it relates to the LGBT community, that all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights.

Here are a few gems I have extracted from the full speech (you can read the text version here) that I think are particularly relevant to discussions that friends and I have been having recently:

"Laws have a teaching effect. Laws that discriminate validate other kinds of discrimination. Laws that require equal protections reinforce the moral imperative of equality. And practically speaking, it is often the case that laws must change before fears about change dissipate."

"Finally, progress comes from being willing to walk a mile in someone else's shoes. We need to ask ourselves, "How would it feel if it were a crime to love the person I love? How would it feel to be discriminated against for something about myself that I cannot change?" This challenge applies to all of us as we reflect upon deeply held beliefs, as we work to embrace tolerance and respect for the dignity of all persons, and as we engage humbly with those with whom we disagree in the hope of creating greater understanding."

"Acting alone, minorities can never achieve the majorities necessary for political change. So when any part of humanity is sidelined, the rest of us cannot sit on the sidelines. Every time a barrier to progress has fallen, it has taken a cooperative effort from those on both sides of the barrier. In the fight for women's rights, the support of men remains crucial. The fight for racial equality has relied on contributions from people of all races. Combating Islamaphobia or anti-Semitism is a task for people of all faiths. And the same is true with this struggle for equality."

"Leadership, by definition, means being out in front of your people when it is called for. It means standing up for the dignity of all your citizens and persuading your people to do the same. It also means ensuring that all citizens are treated as equals under your laws."

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Keep believing ♥

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Sneak peak: Remix Magazine Holiday Issue

The latest Remix magazine hits stores tomorrow and I get to show you a sneak peak!

Packed full of stellar appearances (think Brigette from NZNTM, Bambi Northwood-Blyth, Olivia O'Driscoll) and talented photographers (Derek Henderson, Kelly Thompson and Hannah Richards) this issue will be one for dreamy holiday reading. I'm looking forward to checking out the photo/illustration combo curated by illustrator Kelly Thompson

I HAVE A COPY OF THE REMIX HOLIDAY ISSUE TO GIVE AWAY!

Just flick me an email and tell me where YOU will be reading this copy of Remix. At a beach location? On break at your summer job? On an aeroplane en route to somewhere exciting?

Holla at me! Entries close MIDNIGHT TONIGHT!

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Stand out Rookie 2011 - Georgia Pratt

I had the honour of meeting Georgia Pratt at the AUT RAW festival this year. What a delightful human being she is! I love her approach to the female form and I have become aware of just how "size-ist" our industry is. We had a chat about her graduate collection and some of the things she has learned along the way.

What did you want to do achieve this year?

I wanted to create an accessible women's wear collection that could be appropriate for every woman. I was not interested in creating clothing based on a theme. I wanted to focus on creating clothing meant for a body...with shape. I wanted it to blur whatever that line is between 'standard size' and 'plus size'....something that couldn't be pigeonholed into either of these things but catered to both.  I feel like this is something that is missing from 'designer' clothing, and I wanted to explore it. I set out to create clothing I wanted to wear. 

The base of my range is influenced by classic shapes and detail that are true to sensibility and fit, while there are also free size pieces which have the ability to be worn by a range of different shapes/sizes that create a foundation for fresh shape and silhouette.

Was there a particular point of reference for your colour palette?

I wanted my colour palette to reflect colours that I respond to and that have a real organic depth to them. Because I dyed the fabrics I was able to get my colours almost exact...The colour range was made up of little dried petals taken from a bunch of dried Hydrangeas....Which sounds a bit romantic now that I say it!

What textiles make up your range?

I chose fabrics that encouraged natural silhouette. A lot of linen, cottons, a bit of canvas and a lot of silk as well!

What creatively really inspires you when you approach garments and clothing?

I think its about the feeling of something! You know when you get a particular feeling from something (lets say a piece of clothing)...and its just enough to get you... and from then on you search for it in everything, everywhere in hopes that you may find it again...I think that is something that keeps me wanting to design. I just wanted to create that same experience for other people and I wanted them to get excited about what I was doing!...Hopefully I succeeded!

What were some of the challenges you faced this year when working with different shaped bodies?

Because I was working with different shaped bodies and sizes, a great fit was my biggest challenge! I wanted everything to work with the body not against the body. It was quite a a learning curve! But well worth it... 

What advice would you give to someone just starting out in their study?

Take risks so you can make mistakes!...This is what Uni is for (I only truly realised this in my last year). I learned that being scared about what you are doing only means you care about what it is you are doing...it drives you forward. But also don't forget to have fun! 

What is the big  10 year dream?

I'd like to have my own business i think, I definitely want to design. But obviously there is lots to learn between now and then! I just want to learn as much as I can...

We'll see what happens I guess!

I fell in love with your range! It is original and unique!  Can I buy pieces from it? OR ALL OF IT?

The range is for sale!  You can email me with any questions or enquiries! :)

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The Beaten Track

Do you have plans tonight? Or tomorrow night? Live in Auckland? Fancy getting a bit fancy and checking out some contemporary dance? I asked choreographer Serene Lorimer to tell me about her latest work "The Beaten Track" which open tonight at the Musgrove Studio.

Who: Serene Lorimer and various contemporary dancers/choreographers from around Auckland. These include: Annabel Harrison, Clare Luiten, Elise Chan, Katie Buron, Liana Yew with Georgie Goater, Micke Holland and myself.

What: The Beaten track, a contemporary dance show of short works by a diverse range of NZ's choreographers.

When: 8pm, December 6th and 7th.

Where: Musgrove Studio, Maidment Theatre, Auckland University.

Why: Because I decided to put on a show and I wanted to try something different by getting a wide range of choreographers varying in style and experience to perform together as part of one community; as the NZ dance community is really very small after all.

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You may say I lost everything... But I still had my BEDAZZLER!

As you know I am a devout little monster so you can imagine how excited I was to watch Lady Gaga's video to her song Marry the Night. I am lost for words. Beautiful. 

I have compiled some of her narration with screen shots below. For a full set of images check out my tumblr for your reblogging pleasure! 

 

"When I look back on my life, it’s not that I don’t want to see things exactly as they happened, it’s just that I prefer to remember them in an artistic way. And truthfully, the lie of it all is much more honest, because I invented it.

Clinical psychology tells us, arguably, that trauma is the ultimate killer. Memories are not recycled like atoms and particles in quantum physics. They can be lost forever. It’s sort of like my past is an unfinished painting, and as the artist of that painting, I must fill in all the ugly holes and make it beautiful again. 

It’s not that I’ve been dishonest, it’s just that I loathe reality. For example, those nurses? They’re wearing next-season Calvin Klein, and so am I. And the shoes? Custom Giuseppe Zanotti. 

I tipped their gauze caps to the side like Parisian berets because I think it’s romantic, and I also believe that mint will be very big in fashion next spring. 

Check out this nurse on the right. She’s got a great ass. Bam. 

The truth is, back at the clinic, they only wore those funny hats to keep the blood out of their hair. 

And that girl on the left? She ordered gummi bears and a knife a couple hours ago. They only gave her the gummi bears. I’d wish they’d only given me the gummi bears."

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Stand out Rookie 2011 - Emma Gleason

Emma and I testing out pink Colour Bug at NZFW this year

Emma Gleason and I have been fashion-internet-friends for a while and I knew she worked her little booty off at fashion school so the bar for her graduate collection was set pretty high in my mind. She exceeded my expectations at the 2011 AUT Rookie show! The colours and shapes utilised in Emma's high end contemporary fashion collection are refreshingly clean and calming.

Image: Emma Gleason's graduate collection // Photo by Max Lemesheko 

Here are the transcribed moments from the formal part of our coffee date:

Had fashion always been the dream from when you were a little one?

Yes! I have always been intrigued with clothes and fashion, both the history and the contemporary as well. I initially did a visual arts degree but half way through found my self switching over to Art and Design which was a tough but really good decision.

What were your points of reference throughout the development of this collection?

My collection was exploring the comfort and familiarity of clothing through garments that have a significance to myself. I was really focusing on the fit, the feel and the effect a garment can have on both the wearer and observer through fabric, shape and colour. I really feel like  I nailed it. It was really important to me. It was really important I did it.

Were there any particular significant garments that acted as a reference point for you? 
The yellows are amazing! Where did they come from?

The coat was probably the cornerstone of it. It referenced a yellow raincoat I had as a child from the colour to the shape. From there I really found what I was doing with the collection  in relationship  to garments that are important to me to the fit and the things they signify. The coat was definitely a starting point and everything flowed from there!

What's the big dream?

I'd love to travel! I want to go to Japan and America and all of that! I would love to have my own store and still be doing things in the print world whether it's New Zealand or overseas. I love it here and I think there are things that need to be done here and said here. I love NZ ! I can see my self staying here for the foreseeable future!

Tell me where your fashion blog Rag Pony emerged from?

I was reading bogs on the internet and thinking I could do this and better and one day I just bit the bullet and did it. I got the name as an amalgamation of rag trade and clothes pony. (Two relevant things!) It just started as a project and it just grew and spiralled much to my parents amazement! It's done really well! I try and keep it personal but not solely about myself. It's important I use it to share things I find, things I dig up on the depths of the internet and things that interest me. It's definitely me!

I'm kind of a little bit obsessed with your collection.. Is it for sale?

It is! I'm planning on doing some wholesale orders so get in touch with me. I'll be putting into production pants and some coats. Let me know if there is something you want and I'll see what I can do!

 What would your advice be to someone just starting out in their study?

Take every opportunity you get! You just have to work 250% as hard as you can. It's all about who you meet and it's all about your work ethic. Push yourself creatively and intellectually and step as high as you can!

What next for Ms Emma Gleason and Rag Pony?

Taking a bit of a holiday I need to sort out my room and my life! I'm having some book bags stocked at Pencil boutique with Pebbles Hooper, there are 6 to start off with and then we might do some more. I guess find real life and become an adult! 

MERRY CHRISTMAS MISS RAGAPONES! 

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[Belated] ALL AMERICAN THANKSGIVING!

Image: Our ALL AMERICAN GIRL Nicole and her man Joshua. 

I had the joy tonight of celebrating a belated American thanksgiving dinner with some dear friends. We had Turkin/Churkey (a turkey and chicken hybrid) and PUMPKIN PIE! Plus every other delectable side/drink/dessert possibly imaginable. FOOD BABY!

It's a pretty cool tradition sharing with loved ones what you are thankful for. So often we don't tell each other how much we mean to each other.

I was reminded tonight how important it is to spend time with the people in your life that inspire you towards kindness. I'm lucky to know some pretty exceptional people! 

P.s. I stopped off at le supermarche en route to the festivities to pick up a few things to share and giggled when I realised the proportion of glitter to edible products:

I EAT SPARKLES FOR DINNER!
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