June 29, 2012

On fashion with Murray Bevan

On the Monday morning before Blue Sky way back in April I sat down with Murray Bevan, director and founder of fashion P.R. company Showroom 22, to have a chat about the adventures he has had over the last ten years of business in Auckland.

We made ourselves at home at Rakinos on High St amidst the plush leather couches and the odd coffee-seeking suit. Being the ever-prepared writer (sometimes obsessively so) I had a prepared stash of questions but they were put aside as conversation flowed 

Murray is an Auckland fashion man that I greatly admire so having the opportunity to chatter uninterrupted was a delight. I first met Murray Bevan in September 2008 when he discussed P.R. representation with my graduating class from the AUT Bachelor of Design - Fashion program at AUT University. We had the fear of God instilled in us before Murray came to speak. It was drummed into us how influential Showroom 22 was in our local industry.





Murray launched his Fashion PR company at the tender age of 22 after having worked as Karen Walker's personal assistant for two years. He made the move to Karen Walker after taking what he thought would only be a year long break from studying towards a Bachelor of Architectural Design but his ability to keep up in the fashion world and natural aptitude for getting the job done saw him take a step out on his own. 

He fondly recalls (well, at least with a grin on his face) one of his first tasks at Karen Walker. One season each customer on the database received a set of fortune cookies that had a message along the lines of "You need a new dress" and "Karen Walker sale on now". Guess who got to package the fortune cookies into little boxes, stick on the address labels, stamp each box and take them to the post office? Yes, Mr Bevan. I joke that having an aptitude to getting these tasks done with a  smile and perfection is the sign of a person who can make it in our industry. He grins! 

Murray had been managing the NZ Karen Walker showroom and communication between showrooms in London, New York, Tokyo and London and saw that the concept of the fashion showroom existed but it wasn't available here.  He decided to give it a crack!

"I've always had this idea in my head that came from my mum: she said to me one day (my parents aren't entrepreneurs - dad is an airline pilot) "Muz… What about tax and those things?" Murray replied" I'll employ an accountant to do that for me…" (He was not a fan of getting in trouble with the IRD..) and she replied "If it doesn't work out you can always go pump gas" and he thought "Yeah, you're right!"





Image: Fun and games at The Department Store


Murray acknowledges the important  role of fostering good relationships in our industry, especially in such a small country. 

"I've never thought I'm going to take on the world… but what I'm really good at and what the company is really good at is New Zealand. It's all about relationships. To be successful in any market you have to know that market really well and we know New Zealand really well. I'm proud to be supporting the New Zealand fashion industry and knowing we have played an immensely important role in (fashion designers') businesses."

If you follow Showroom 22 on Twitter you will have no doubt seen the odd football-related tweet. Murray has played the game since he was five years old and coached his nephew's team for seven years. Balance is definitely crucial in this industry and he has found a neat way of recharging.

"It's a really good way to turn off the fashion/party thing and go knock around a football with five year old kids in the weekend. It means that I can clear my head and then get back on monday and be really into it. The thing that I love about my job is that I love going to work every day, I love who I work for and I want to come up with new ideas and do the events we run. I've never thought "I don't want to go to that thing tonight…." Long may it last!"

Murray's drive is infectious! I ask for his advice to young ones starting out in their professional lives. 

"When I talk to younger people I always say to them "Don't panic if you don't know what to do or if you have come out of a three year degree and you are not sure if that's what you want to do because you will find something that you love and if you love it you will be good at it. It will happen!"








Image: Manet Stripe by Twenty-Seven Names, Winter 2012


I was encouraged by these words! But what about advice for young creatives?

"The bones of what you achieve is going to come from a point of difference. You need to know your market inside out. Walk into every shop you can, look at what labels are sold and what labels are sold next to them, price points, foot traffic, which stores are busy which aren't? When its cloudy which store is busy? When its sunny who is busy and who isn't?"

If you take a look at twenty-seven names, they went from zero to pretty high quite fast. They hit the market at the right time. They had a good price point, they had fun product, limited edition prints.  Know everything  you possibly can before you even create that first pen stroke of design so understand what you are good at and push that. If you want to do footwear and know nothing about it, don't attempt it. Go and get ground knowledge!"

Event management is one of the services that Showroom 22 offer their clients so I asked Murray about the most exciting event he has produced over the last ten years? He names the famous launch of a Karen Walker Eyewear campaign in 2006. 




Image: She wears Iris in Black and Yellow by Karen Walker. Shot by Derek Kettela


"Karen and Mikhail had this idea that the bigger sunglasses you wear, the more power you have. They had looked at powerful dictators and looked at the size of their sunglasses and they were huge (insert Frank Bainimarama and his aviators and Kim Jong Il)  They dreamed up this campaign called "Vote Karen Walker Eyewear". We had an event just after the launch party of Fashion Week where we set up two massive lecterns and dummy microphones and you could take a pair of Karen Walker Eyewear and get your photo taken by Derek Henderson. Insert gestures of peace symbols and raising speeches.  The photos got transferred to an on-site HP printer so you could get your photo in a little card to take away. So awesome! The funny thing was though that on the night there was about 15 pairs of sunglasses that got stolen. 

I had women calling me on monday saying "Hi Murray.. you don't know me but I woke up on Sunday morning with two pairs of Karen Walker sunglasses in my handbag. I don't know who put them there. I might have taken them..I was a little bit drunk at the party" and I said "That's cool, let me know where you are and I'll come get them. Amnesty assured, you are not in trouble!"

It was so funny all these sheepish people calling saying "I was a bit drunk.. I think I stole a pair of sunglasses.."  We didn't get a few of them back. It's great when that kind of product creates such a ground-swell of hype and excitement. That story has gone around and around… Mikhail keeps recounting that time we did that party and all those frames were swiped!"

I've always wondered how P.R. companies manage big events like New Zealand Fashion Week. The diplomacy needed just to create a guest list must be intense! Murray says he doesn't buy into the ego surrounding event management. At the end of the day it is about working for the client and what they want goes. "I have to be an unfriendly diplomatic doorman sometimes!"

"Fashion Week brings out the worst in people. Some people assume that if they are in fashion they need to act a bit fabulous and I can understand why people get into it but I don't want to ever create that allure. I want what you see at the front to be as polished and as perfect and as aspirational as possible. I want people to take that away. Luckily I get to the end of the week and I can laugh it all off … not taking my laptop home I'm playing football tomorrow with the kids!"






Image: Screengrab from Showroom22's new website


Celebrating 10 years in business this year I ask Murray would he do it all again? He warmly responds "I think I would!"

"We have been an incubator of sorts. Our designers ask us questions that relate to many many topics well outside of P.R.  We've become an integral part of their day-to-day process which is really really cool! It also means that it is really exciting for us because it means there is different stuff to do all the time!"

On the topic of social media I joke that I feel like I know so much about Murray's kitten via his instagram feed. Instagram is his current favorite social media platform with Rise being Murray's go-to filter. On a more serious note we chatted a bit about the growth of the bloggersphere:

"In the last couple of years when the blogger phenomenon took off there were people like yourself who came on board and established themselves as a player in that market. Some have gone but the ones that have stayed have covered off what we need in the industry and I don't think there's too much room for new bloggers to get in. But I suppose there will be a rise of people who have a new take on it. They will look at the current landscape and say "I'm not a designer, I'm not a publicist, I'm not a blogger but I can do this other thing really well" and that will develop itself. I don't know what that is yet!"


I'm looking forward to finding out what that is too! Thanks Murray!


Is there someone in the local New Zealand fashion industry or further afield in the international scene that you would love to see featured in this "On Fashion" feature? Drop me an email, Tweet or message on Facebook!


XX

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Archie x Instagram



I always thought Instagram was the domain of the kitten but after my puppy's hit introduction on the photosharing platform last week I think he will become a regular on my feed. Yeah I'm that person.

Let me introduce you to Archimedes, Archie for short!



XX

Follow me on instagram yeah? User name: aychblog

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June 27, 2012

Fashioning Change

I'm honored to have been included in the style issue of Express Magazine that hits stands today chatting about my uni project on gender fluidity. 


Make sure you pick up a copy! (Or ten.. imagine wrapping your Christmas presents in a rad commentary on gender and fashion blogging?)


The clever Anna Loren did a great job compiling our interview into an easy to read narrative of what I've been up to lately. Great chatter about who inspires me (Lady Gaga, Patty Huntington and Otto Von Busch) along with a bit of the aychblog.com story and the role of binary gender in the modern fashion system.


Click the scan to the left to enlarge or click continue below to read the text copy!



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June 25, 2012

"Girl Or Boy" By Dani Shay



Dani Shay was a contestant on The Glee Project and I've just been introduced to their YouTube channel.

I've had some interesting discussions on gender this week some of which have included many *face palm* moments. Maybe if I was as cute as Dani and could sing, my frustrating conversations could have just turned into musical moments?

XX

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June 23, 2012

Photo of the week: des chaussures

Clockwise from top left: Emma, Oliver, Thistle, Me, Jack

XX

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June 21, 2012

"I'm here to fight for my future"



No big deal guys but my 17 year old cousin (well, my aunt's niece) was one of the opening speakers at Rio+20 this morning. The United Nations Conference on Sustainable Development marked it's 20th birthday today and who better to remind the 130 heads of state that not enough is being done to ensure sustainable development of our planet and communities than the eloquent Brittany Trilford. 

She opened by saying "I'm here to fight for my future." Mixing homework (she has an assignment due when she gets back from Brazil) with dignitaries seems to come naturally for this bright spark.

Challenging global leaders to initiate change to ensure planet earth has many more seasons ahead, she boldly set down the task: 

"You have 72 hours to decide the fate of your children - my children - my children's children - and I start the clock now." 
Brittany was selected by a panel of judges including Leonardo DiCaprio and public voting from contestants around the world for this 2minute speech she submitted: 


The concluding lines from her speech this morning gave me chills: 
"As I stand here to face you today I wonder; are you here to hedge your bets and see what happens? 
To save face or to save us?"
What a brilliant human!

XX  

Follow Brittany Trilford on Twitter!

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June 19, 2012

Huffer annual blowout


Sweet Huffer and ABC threads on sale this weekend in Auckland! 


XX

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June 18, 2012

The Week That Was



Image: Top O' The Morning

1. This post should really be entitled "The Last Few Weeks That Were" (someone can shoot me on the grammar later) as school has been kicking my booty. I really want to do well academically but I have the tension of wanting to take bloggy things to a new level. Trying to excel at both at the same time is a 'mare. If someone would like to help me with admin I can pay you... in glitter?

2. I think THIS cover video by Abercrombie & Fitch of Carly Rae Jepsen's "Call Me Maybe" is a very clever use of their marketing budget...babes in A&F lip-syncing... repost!



Image: Looking at Faerie ME!

3. A few weeks ago I was part of the opening performance at the exhibition Faerie Tales curated by Rebecca Swan and it was pretty incredible. My school work this year is all about opening conversations on diverse gender identity and this piece definitely opened some pretty spectacular conversations with friends and attendees! I got to wear a spectacularly glittery creation and talk about the Faerie world where the magically gendered live. Super rad.



Image: Afternoon tea time

4. This week the lovely Katie Coleman of Katie-Marie Cole invited Katherine Lowe and I over for afternoon tea to check out her Spring/Summer 12/13 range. There were Macaroons! Also, pretty clothes. My fave look from the range is this cute shirt with wooden buttons:


Photo: Jessica Sim // Kate Marie Cole SS 12/13 

Remember to check out Katie Maree Cole's Onceit sale that is on till Wednesday at 12pm (NZ time)

5. You have probably seen the chatter over on Twitter about #MakeupMonday? The yummy Tiffany Low wrote a cute blog post about it here

6. Purchase of the week goes to these mint brogues from ASOS. Fit like a glove and make me feel like a  rockstar. Paired with sea blue chinos and I'm a happy camper.


7. I'm working on a little drawing project this week featuring dinosaurs. I wish they were good enough to upload to the internet but I'm insecure. Maybe next week?

XX

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June 17, 2012

ILY Internet!



Dearest Internet, 

I love you. 

I've been cheating on you with real life. And I miss you. 

This balance thing is killing me.

Let's get better? Yeah? 

XX

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June 12, 2012

Sometimes you just have to giggle


I had a moment on the weekend where I laughed like Michael Kors does in this Project Runway clip and it was the best feeling. I'm sure my friends thought I was bonkers till they saw what I was laughing at...

I was at the beach and watching a parent try to push their toddler along the sand in a pram. 

PUSHING A PRAM ON SAND A BABY ON BOARD? Does. Not. Work.

Cue rolling laughter to the point of feeling like I was going to die. 

Oh giggles. School is full on at the moment so would love for you to send lots of good productive energy my way? Making lots of cool stuff but there just aren't enough hours in the day (read: Starbucks) to win at everything. I'm trying to stay on top of life with instagram so follow me (username: aychblog), Twitter and Facebook

XX

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June 9, 2012

The Born This Way Ball




I can't believe that I got to see Lady Gaga perform live last night at the #BornThisWayBall! I described to friends who were in our group last night that to see Mother Monster perform is a spiritual experience. She is a freaking pioneer. The way she energizes and speaks to a crowd is incredible. 


I don't want to publish any spoilers but if you haven't purchased tickets to the #BornThisWayBall and it is coming to your city you must make it a priority. Especially if you are creatively inclined, it will inspire the socks off you!

 
This is a wee instagram of my outfit (fancy cameras were not allowed) so hopefully you can see the royal-glitter-gasmic look I was going for? I'm still processing the visual spectacle, energy and inspiring spoken word... I think I need to channel this creatively into something to remind me of all of this inspiration on a rainy day!

XX

P.S. Did you see this amazing comic that my friend Sam Orchard drew asking Lady Gaga to get on board with the WTF campaign? He is amazing! 





Please tweet Mother Monster and ask her for her support!

XX

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June 4, 2012

Come see me talk about glitter at Faerie Tales!


Tomorrow night if you are in Auckland I'd love for you to come check out the opening of Faerie Tales at Snake Pitt Gallery on High Street from 6pm. Rebecca Swan has curated an exhibition of works exploring queer narratives through a variety of mediums and let me tell you the pieces are awesome! 



I'm part of the performance at 9pm so make sure you get in early... I'm super nervous so it would be lovely to see some delicious faces in the crowd! I've been stitching away on a pretty wicked costume... but you are going to have to be there to see it! 

XX

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When I grow up I want to be Tavi Gevinson



If you have been around the internet a while you will know just how insightful Tavi Gevinson is. She started her blog Style Rookie four years ago at the tender age of eleven and launched Rookie Mag in September last year. If you are looking for a bit of a pick me up Tavi is always a good one to check out on the internet. She is so freaking grounded! I wish I had her self belief and way with words... 

My friend Imogen sent me the above video to a TedxTeen talk that Tavi gave earlier in the year and this comment on feminism has stuck with me:

"Girls then think that to be a feminist they have to live up to being, you know, perfectly consistent in your beliefs, never being insecure, never having doubts, having all of the answers... This is not true and this became easier once I understood feminism is not a rule book but a discussion, a conversation, a process."
As a FAAB (female assigned at birth) person I often struggle with understanding what it means to embrace feminist ideology while still participating in practices (like beauty regimes) that on the outside seem to be so contradictory to my world view. If I enact rituals around presentation that exaggerate my body in a way that subscribe to beauty ideals that are unnatural and idealistic, am I acknowledging that to be a successful person I feel the need to be slimmer/taller/tanned/prettier with whiter teeth/perfect hair/amazing skin?

I think acknowledging this discomfort is quite powerful. I find that it enables me to stay engaged with the ideas that form my world, it holds me accountable to these ideals and it helps me to evaluate where my thinking needs to move to and when my actions need to change.

Here is to discomfort!

XX

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